Around Town with Mr Brown

Magic Curtains

2011-10-05T13:05:00.004+01:00

Following a nice Guinness with, erm, lively company in the Blackstock Arms a luverly evening was spent recently with Mr Tope and friends talking seersucker and other late summer things that now elude my memory.

Legendary Children's party, Vogue Fabrics hosted.

Acid house, smiley faces, whooping, cheering and top notch music... bullseye.

Been Busy.

2011-06-23T19:04:00.005+01:00

Opened a venue in EC1, been hither and thither and lots in between.

I hope everyone's fine, especially Lynne whose concern has been a tonic.

Peas & Lice. x.

Making it up.

2010-06-25T00:01:00.001+01:00

Cuff, tank case, the obvious.

None of it can be knocked.

Rules means nothing.

Relaxed in your choice is everything.

Lost and Find

2010-06-04T15:07:00.005+01:00

If you have even a passing interest in London, 1960's London, Mod's, Suedeheads and teenage rites of passage jump on Bronco Bullfrog.

And, when you do remember this pre-dates Jimmy, smashed Li 150's, Brighton and all that lot by ten years.

Saturday 19 June
Bronco Bullfrog + Q&A with Barney Platts-Mills
Curzon Soho

Friday 11 June
BFI Southbank
Genesis Cinema, Whitechapel
IFI Dublin

Saturday 19 - Sunday 20 June
Curzon Soho

Sunday 27 June
HMV Curzon Wimbledon

I had a little chat with Barney last night about Anne Gooding.

At 40 she had a heart condition and was told to take it easy; she died 10 years later having spent the time on the dance floor.

Very, very sad, but hat's off to her - work the time line you'll see why.

Knees Up Mr Brown

2010-06-03T09:05:00.015+01:00

Bronco Bullfrog premiere is at BFI this evening.

It's a blinding day, RFH terrace watching the fluff blow is the warm up.

Anyway, before I start thinking South of the river is all Mwuah Mwauh here's a reminder, and they don't come much better. 1972;

- RUMOUR -

2010-04-14T10:07:00.018+01:00

Rumours are again circulating that London's more circumspect are gathering to do what they do best.

This mob were seen making slow but determined progess and are believed to be forgathering for a Gentleman's Pinch at 93 Leonard St, EC2 before massing at Gramaphone, 60-62 Commercial St. E1.

You've been notified.

Our Heritage. Your Research.

2010-04-12T22:40:00.012+01:00

Made in England.

Good to see they're getting the recognition they deserve.

Crap picture. Good tote.

Spot the cord.

In HR Towers the Millerain stuff is ace, but the x2 pricing for the canvas is mad.

Viva Cornwall.

The Odd Couple

2010-03-03T22:41:00.006Z

Some things in life naturally pair up.

Salt and pepper, salt beef & rye, pink & green, Jag's and recovery vehicles, bikes and oil stains.

What doesn't do it is puddles and canvas.

Nor thin soles and ice.

Sub-zero and aeration.

So my why do I see Converse all year round in London?

All year.

Sun. Fine.
Shimmer. Fine.
Rain. No.
Snow. I shouldn't need to answer.

I know these people aren't unlucky; caught out by freak weather or rogue advice from today's Ulrika or Kettley.

I know this to be a fact.

An example two days ago - a girl with a full length unbrella and All Stars.

That was planned, wanton seasonal misadjustment.

Don't get me wrong the pumps are nice, so are JP's ('urcells Mr Ankles) but they're for the spring and summer.

And, they'll be here soon - save them.

It's always worth the wait.

MITUSA but for Spring/Summer.

They Can't Take That Away From Me

2010-02-03T08:55:00.006Z

I had the privilege and sad honour of attending a funeral last week.

We were putting to rest a great man, a peer of Ernö Goldfinger in London's post war architectural circles who went on to lay out cities in the far East and, in retirement redefined the concept of retiring. He had time for everyone, and everyone was treated as his equal.

I was preparing for the funeral and put on a dark charcoal grey suit ready to leave.

It seemed right. It was sober. Appropriate for funerals .

It was funeral uniform.

That said, it didn't say anything about the man, our relationship and his outlook on the world.

I changed; keeping the black knitted tie and switching to black cords, grey cardigan and white oxford. Inconsequential really but it felt far more respectful of our memory.

The last music was Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald "They Can't Take That Away From Me". Look up the lyrics sometime.

For me it's about how and why you choose to do things, cutting your own path rather than blindly swinging in behind the line.

We're fortunate enough to be able to make choices, so lets make a few.

- CONFIDENTIAL -

2010-01-18T11:04:00.006Z

The Secret Order reconvene this Saturday, January 23, 2010.

There's a lot of furtive noise on the matter; you're no doubt aware.

I saw this pair only earlier today, however as you can see take care, walls have ears.

Tweed and capes optional.

Location: Gramaphone, 60 - 62 Commercial Street. E1

Pocket Ballast - Part 1

2010-01-13T12:05:00.010Z

or Least We Forget....

I’ve been told the pockets of McDonalds uniforms are sewn up to avoid petty theft. Urban myth or not, the rest of us carry all sorts about, borrowed, planted, cherished or long forgotten. As Number One in a series that I can’t guarantee will extend beyond this we explore one piece of pocket ballast that should always be present.

My assistant models one below:

Richard II ((1367 – 1400), 6 January – 14 February to be precise) kicked it off and since its auspicious start has been seen in every walk of life, in numerous guises, assuming endless roles.

For many (read, ill informed) the handkerchief is an unhygienic piece of cotton in someone else’s pocket.

Perhaps.

Perhaps there are more hygienic methods of wiping your nose.

Article 1. A Schnoz.

But should this be the sole criteria by which should live our lives?

You can, he and they can, but I’m not.

What are the options?

Put simply there are none.

There is no more unedifying sight than that of man scratching around in his pocket to pull out a scrap of tissue, attempt to mop his nose and continue his day with paper detritus dangling from his upper lip.

A pathetic, ill prepared and now kowtowed figure of a man appears where once stood a friend you respected and some admired.

If you're still wavering think of the sniveller on this mornings tube and yesterdays bus. They were admired only for their exit. A warm welcome may continue from their mother. No one else.

Once you're in, however, proud owners of this humble square will find a new world opens up. A good handkerchief is but a fold from a neckerchief (sometimes referred to as an ascot by our friends west of the Azores).

Any casual visitors to the English South West will have know of their use by sailors to keep draughts from their neck and the sun off it later in the year. This should be reason alone; any excuse for even the smallest of nods to the nautical world is something not to be left folded in a glass cabinet.

They go from cold, to warm to bandage just as effectively.

Further afield the lowly cotton square is the standard western film good guy / bad guy test; point at back = good, front = bad.

Historically, yes the white handkerchief has had low points in it's use in place of a white flag to indicate surrender or a flag of truce, but they were also left with war time squeezes to wave sailors off and keep under pillows.

A white linen number is the perfect accessory to a suit, and the fold thereof can range from the austere to the flamboyant; The Presidential; The TV Fold; The One-point, Two-point, Three-point and, yep you've got the system, the Four-point Folds are all recognised forms. And that's leaving out The Cagney, The Puff (and Reverse Puff), The Cooper, The Astaire, The Straight Shell and The Diagonal Shell.

(TT. Any excuse.)

A handkerchief's use can go on and on; impromptu cloth, padding, container and not least that immortal piece of British seaside head gear.

Yes, there are more exciting items to rattle on about; made on a bench in Northampton, hand sewn in Maine, sourced from mountain beasts, sweated over in an Italian village workshop (well before lunch and an afternoon nap at least) but they mean nothing if you haven't got the fundamentals sorted.

Obviously the case for could continue but really, that should be enough.

Great British Two

2010-01-06T20:06:00.016Z

The Quoddy's served me well through autumn, the Filson Steptoes too. I can't recommend either of them strongly enough* which is a relief as they'll be with me for quite some time.

(* Naturally the unnecessary Filson branding was immediately unpicked and removed).

Anyway, my first spring item arrived today, perfect timing, just as London got it's third pile of snow this winter.

This, and the admirable job blogs on the other side of the atlantic have served to the time honoured LL Bean Duck Boot prompted me to get my posting pen out.

As two of America's greats stood up so well it seems fitting to fly the flag for two British staples that'll make a stroll in any London weather an unencumbered pleasure.

They both carry Royal Warrants for good reason and although these Hunters (Gates, post '86 of course) were made in Scotland they're now off shored. Down the tubes or off shored - that's a hard one.

Thinking on this surely the classic wellington could have continued to be produced in Scotland and the newer additions (read (on the whole shocking) cash cows ) punted off shore? Many would willingly pay a premium for the real deal surely.

Trickers however aren't going anywhere they seem busier than ever.

These boots were made for walking I believe someone once said, perhaps if we issued the above to some of the current stay-at-homers that could be out of choice.

Digit Dressing

2009-09-23T09:02:00.013+01:00

Leather gloves are everywhere. They're not a particularly taxing option.

Brown or black? Black or brown?
Lining?
Bound seams, or not?

If you can't answer those yourself you're probably not safe to leave the house alone.

Anyway, leather can look all a bit too serious so don't over look wool, it's a wonder yarn.

Here's a duo that are worth a squint...

Filson's homage to Albert Steptoe covers Autumn:

Into Winter the traditional Dachstein boiled wool mitt has been used by generations of Austrian walkers and mountaineers - so I'm guessing it'll handle even the barren wastes of Centre Point base camp.

They're initially made up oversized and then carefully shrunk to fit - craft, not crud.

Boiled wool doesn't seem to get the use it deserves, it has a hard wearing felt finish that's soft to wear, is windproof and continues to keep you warm even when wet. More please.

Action whilst the sun shines...

2009-09-04T11:55:00.006+01:00

It's pretty sunny.

And it's supposed to stay that way, for a couple of weeks ( no bets being placed on that however).

More importantly though Autumn* is almost here.

It seems like the ideal time, and last chance to get my umbrella serviced.

James Smith (see below) of course and, I must say, I like that place more and more.

Having dropped my umbrella off for servicing they took my address (physical for the techo-assumptive out there) and will post me an estimate prior to commencing the work.

Just like hand written receipts this sort of (tiny) thing makes me look forward to the chance of my next visit.

During hard retailing times it's worth a note. The cost is next to nothing but the experience is in a different league.

* Fall for our more literal readers, x.

Present Again

2009-09-03T14:20:00.007+01:00

Brown HQ has moved and with it I've been on pen & paper mode (well, with a bit of 3g phone access but quite frankly that makes the 38 at Holborn look fast)...

Anyway, present again and with that I'm please to report Present is too.

I'm not going to bang on about it here; no need, not even the Nigel Cabourn stuff, Present x Trickers brogue boots (with Vibram sole) and Hartford Madras jacket...

It all exceeds the highest of expectations.

Get yourself along, they haven't opened a bricks & mortar store for nowt.

140 Shoreditch High Street, E1.

A Neighbourhood Butcher Of Distinction

2009-07-28T14:24:00.010+01:00

There are loads of online stores out there.

Great.

If you can't walk.

Are afraid of people.

Or live in the sticks.

I swang by A Butcher of Distinction earlier.

Sale? Yep.

Better still though they've pulled out all sorts of goodies that have gone un-noticed including forgotten gems from Dominic's old Rushmoor label. Looking at them now is testament to how good that stuff was/is.

Retail is hard right now. But if we don't support our independents we'll be left with faceless crud churning out identikit nothings.

Your choice.

They don't survive on thin air .

11 Dray Walk, Old Truman Brewery
London, E1
020 7770 6111

Pitter Patter

2009-07-27T10:13:00.012+01:00

Left the Reynolds frame at home this morning and got the 8 spoke out.

Samuel Fox's frame was a major Victorian break-through; prior to his revolutionary frame umbrella's were huge, whale bone made bulky affairs.

The Fox frame was slender enough for men to use as both a cane and umbrella. A far more dignified proposition than constantly swapping hands as you went about your everyday business.

If you're dodging the rain, or worse still cowering under a shabby folding effort* a detour to Bloomsbury needs to be taken. James Smith come complete with Umbrella Service Centre in the basement too (don't cha'know).

* If this is your only option, you have no option; enjoy the rain.

The Fat Lady Aint Sung

2009-07-22T21:54:00.012+01:00

Sorry about all this Autumn chat...

More of this eh?

And...

(*Many thanks G. Rizzi Trust (Gigi, Carlo & Friend with Riva, Cote d'Azur 1962))

Made in Maine.

2009-07-22T08:41:00.006+01:00

Autumn and good winter days, it's gonna be all about Kevin and Kirsten's black bluchers.

In business, with one family since 1909 and an LL Bean maker when that was worth something too.

There is so much more I could say but, most importantly when the Metro and the other seat rubbish are onto their next churned-out-imitation-thing, they'll still be in Perry focusing on the essentials - quality and craftmanship.

Say Hello, Say Goodbye.

2009-07-07T14:22:00.006+01:00

AW09 is arriving in the shops in London already.

Just as summer seems to be settling in too.

Anyway, eyes forward; track down the Paraboot moccasins in all black, they're nice.

Checks/plaid all over the place again too. RL in Liberty looking good, see a previous post for new stuff from Stansfield. It's all about boiled wool for me...

Look Book #1:

Love this weather now though, it feels like it's just got warm so much of this will need to wait...

CRUNCH time...

2009-06-19T15:07:00.003+01:00

Still not convinced by my yellow recommendations?

I think I can rest my case...

If not, time to pack yours; this blog ain't pour tu.

Ps. Lynn, #955 - you do the math.

Mountain People

2009-06-15T23:20:00.010+01:00

On Friday I caught the 16:10 from Euston to Snowdonian; I'd planned a stroll on Saturday. Out of town, in the middle of the green stuff.

Crib Goch is top Jonny; a fine place to spend an afternoon however it must be said for a nation that has led the way in outdoor style the current generation of walkers, ramblers, climbers and general outdoorsman need to sharpen up.

Shabby (at best).

Again, the curse of man made fibres is at play.

When I meet the devil I expect him to be in a fleece with polyester walking trousers.

No excuses either, the choice of proper alternatives is huge.

Here's a a couple of pictures worth bearing in mind next time you need you to head uphill:

Ps. Hats of to Don Whilland and many thanks to Angeles Chapter Archives

Ringling & Barnum

2009-05-27T22:26:00.006+01:00

Clown.

Character.

Written down they look very different.

Sartorially however only a very slim line separates them.

Take heed.

Say No Go.

2009-05-21T14:52:00.009+01:00

London is sunny today.

It feels warm.

Lunch at St John's was good... Elderberry beer, Breton cider*, beef, horseradish & grey wet salt, great company and conversation touching on fanzines, disco, house, Victorian denim, old shirts, old flags and even a bit of empire related philosophy (see * - they must be connected).

Footwear was well represented principally Derby and Oxford's, leather and suede.

I've mentioned elsewhere that we should make our own rules, so let's avoid making one now and see an equation we used a napkin to slave over;

Flips Flops + Chap + London = Total Charlie

It seems insane a naked woman would be arrested but this sort of social transgression can go unchallenged.

If you have to put a bit of the Cote d'Azur on your feet or a slice of España on your soles (and why wouldn't you) try something like these:

Speak to the boys on Tib Street for more details.

Overall success...

2009-05-14T10:02:00.005+01:00

A winning trilogy...

(Peter Gregg & Hurley Haywood, 1972)

Rayban, Gucci and overalls.

I've never been a Gucci fan but this is a persuasive case... I may give it go but I think I'm gonna struggle in EC1.

Pinch don't Plump

2009-05-13T08:42:00.000+01:00

A smaller knot is cleaner, straight forward with no fuss.

The Windsor Knot on the other hand was invented to create something it never was.

The Duke of Windsor didn't use a Windsor knot. Nor did he dream up the knot.
He used a four in hand (the standard school boy approach) but had his ties made up in thicker cloth to make a bigger knot.

The Windsor Knot however was concocted to create the same effect with a standard tie.

It was for imposters.

London estate agents take note.

Here's Terry* showing off slim knottery at it's best!

*An imposter of sorts (TT pulled it off) but I'll return to imposters, good & bad, another day...

The Frayed Toe Gang

2009-05-06T23:26:00.000+01:00

As Combat88 noted 'they're only pumps' and indeed they are.

I promised spring / summer and it doesn't get much more L'estate (clue) than these, they even come with white bits.

I'm not bla-ing on about a long lost gem, nor a startup punching above it's weight. Known in Italy as The People's Shoe, they've beeen in production since 1925 and are still as fresh as a daisy.

Pininfarina and Bertone may be but two of Torino's gems but they're not the whole story. Anyone who appreciates a bit of rolled jean + ankle/scalze action has to jump into a pair of Superga 2750.

Just rubber & cotton - none of that nasty man made stuff to spoil your summer.

Hats off to Walter Martiny, the Grand Frayed Toe.

The Future Aint All Silver Lycra Mate....

2009-05-01T08:01:00.000+01:00

Stansfield has been bang on the money since day one.

Taking inspiration from classic military clothing and work wear without churning out replica's. Placing a twist on them without being quirky for the sake of it. Looking to England and Europe rather than the all too common (but in fairness often worthwhile) rush to North America.

All of this (then, throw in Rushmore too) deserves a tip of anyone's cap and mumble of praise before it all's gets bit flouncy & uncomfortable.

I wouldn't want to rush through spring and summer before it's even happened but the sneak preview of what's coming from Stansfield AW09 (made even better with English cloths and making) would make even the most fervent seer sucker think roll on bonfire season and bangers waking me up all night:

Images Courtesy of Stansfield http://www.stansfieldonline.com - Ta!

More Spring and Summer to follow (Auntie Beeb tells us it's gonna be a scorcher!)

Summer - reasons to be cheerful Pt I

2009-04-23T10:03:00.000+01:00

So the walk from Scoop is gonna be a bit further but I'm guessing this'll be just what London needs...

I trust Neil & Ash will be in attendance?

From GT

Spring.. reasons to be cheerful?

2009-04-22T07:51:00.000+01:00

Do only the retired buy spring jackets?

Are lighter weight coats aimed only at the partially sighted, the depressed and military? Is spring the new winter? Grey, khaki, battleshit blue (sic) are all perfectly fine colours, but spring they ain't. New life, summer round the corner, do they sum up those images?

No.

In which case in some quarters a rethink is required. And it's not too late.

In my small way to help check these out (The first needs no explanation, Weejuns, ankles & capris, yellow... it's all there. Guy Cotton - hunt them down; for the inner trawlerman and second to none)...

From GT

Summer Schmutter

2009-04-20T08:54:00.001+01:00

Maybe it's early summer excitement, maybe it's that the picture captures the spirit of the white island, maybe it's maybe but which ever it is if you're looking for shorts for this summer this is essential viewing...

Fetch a Hose

2009-04-15T23:54:00.000+01:00

If your shoe has a Goodyear welt you need a sock.

Any other option is a modern day emperors turnout.

Anyone with a honest eye can see this.

Get something appropriate for Spring. If you need a starter for ten see Pantherella, New & Lingwood, Jermyn St in general. I'm pretty sure UniQlo would sort you out even.

Please.

This isn't about rules of dressing or any of that old nonsense, make you're own up but, balance & style are inseparable.

John Smedley Nonnative

2009-04-15T08:55:00.000+01:00

Lea Mills finest has hooked up with Japans nonnative to knock out a couple of sweaters.

On first sight they're sure to get the the blood racing but JS have been collaborating with the great & the good for years, so lets not get too over excited especially as the highlight - the coloured elbow patches have been about for a while (....Oliver Sweeney, Roberta Collina and even Eddie's boys down on Shoreditch Highstreet (Shorts Gardens RIP)).

Check them out on the honeyee.com blog or the eye candy below...

Hahahaha... Sixty Months (about).

2009-04-14T22:28:00.000+01:00

I set this thing up 5 years ago. I've been busy.
Things haven't stopped.

In the meanwhile short strides have been making big steps;
Not offensive in their own right, why shouldn't Northampton's finest be given center stage?

Because all so often it's Shoreditch pumps taking the lime light.

They're cheap because they have no worth.
And, they've been causing footwear faux pars for longer than this site has been resting.

My rest is over, time for yours.

EC1 - lime, mint and sandals

2004-06-16T23:46:00.000+01:00

...the cork soled east is usurped by the rubberised west, garish sandals are already causing alarm - all eyes north and south for the next jesus boot de riguer.